Parts List:
Xenarc 7" LCD VGA TouchScreen - ($580 - Onehitwonders.com) - (Xenarc 700TSV)
Gateway E-1400 Small Form Factor PC - (PIII-700, 256MB Ram and a 30GB 2.5" laptop size Hard Drive)
Gyration Cordless Optical Keyboard and Mouse Suite - ($99 - Fry's Electronics) - (Gyration Cordless Optical Suite)
50W 12V DC to 120V AC Power Inverter - (about $25 - Fry's Electronics)
Coleman 800W 12V DC to 120V AC Power Inverter - ($75 - Fry's Electronics)
Magellan Meridian Gold GPS - ($280 - Fry's Electronics) - (Meridian Gold)
Magellan Meridian Vehicle Mount - ($30 - Fry's Electronics) - (Vehicle Mount)
Magellan Meridian Power and Data Bare End Cable - ($20 - Online) - (Power and Data Cable)
Magellan Mapsend Topo - ($100 - Online) - (Mapsend Topo)
National Geographic TOPO! California - (I mooched it, but about $100) - (Topo)
Delorme Street Atlas USA 2003 - ($45 - Fry's Electronics) - (Street Atlas 2003)

GPS:
I got the Magellan Meridian Gold GPS because of its ability to store and load Topo Maps using a SecureDigital Memory card. So far I have had very good luck with the maps that are available from the software and a suprising amount of dirt roads are on the maps. If you have any questions about this unit, email me. Functionally there is one shortfall that I have noticed but it only affects a small group of travelers. If you travel BELOW sea level, the unit will read "0" instead of the correct elevation. Interestingly enough, if you have the topo maps loaded and move the cursor on the map right next to your position, the map will report the correct elevation. I have emailed Magellan and the said that the unit does not do negative elevation. I don't really see this as a problem mostly because this only is a problem in a few places in the United States. (This happened to me in Death Valley National Park). Other than that, the unit works great. I really recommend picking up the vehicle mount and using it with the power and data cable.

Computer:
I originally was going to build my own system using a Via EPIA-M motherboard. But after getting the motherboard, case and everything, I decided that the Gateway fit the bill much better. I did make a change to the computer to help make the system work a little better on the road. I replaced the original 15GB 3.5" sized drive with a 30GB 2.5" laptop hard drive. The reason for this is the orignally I was going to build my own PC (see more info below why I ditched it). Laptop drives use less power and are far more resistant to bouncing around off road and such.
(2/9/03) - Great news. On a whim, I tried the 50W Inverter that I normally use for my laptop on the trucks computer. It worked, much to my suprise. I dunno if it had anything to do with changing out the hard drive, but even with the CD-ROM drive running, the system worked no problem on the much smaller power supply. This will allow me to not have to use the 800W one I have purchased and use this much smaller one instead. This will help the unit run cooler and make sure that we don't drain the batteries in the truck too quickly.
(2/19/03) - UGH. Ok...yeah the computer will work, but there isn't enough power for the USB ports for some reason. Oh well, gotta get something else. Seriously considering going to a 150W inverter mounted underneith the other seat.

Keyboard and Mouse:
Ok...This was a big area of concern for me. Having a computer in the truck can be very distracting and most of the installs I have seen on the internet are VERY sloppy. I want something that is clean and as easy to use as possible. That was the main reason for spending the cash for the touchscreen. But, even with the touchscreen, there are times when a regular keyboard and mouse are essential. On a whim, I picked up the Gyration keyboard and mouse kit without really taking a look at what the product was. My original goal was to find a RF wireless keyboard and this kit just happened to come with an optical mouse. The reason I choose RF over Infrared is that IR requires line of sight to work and would require that I install a IR receiver somewhere in the truck that is accessable from anywhere in the truck. The really cool and unexpected part of this kit was that the mouse is an optical mouse that is ALSO a gyro mouse. Meaning that if you pick it up, it goes from an optical mouse to allowing you to control the mouse simply by pushing a trigger button on the bottom of the mouse and moving it in midair. It requires no calibration and honestly, it works really well. I tried it from over 20' away and it worked like a champ. Another cool thing I really like about it is that the KB & Mouse is USB and doesn't require any drivers to run. (That was unexpected too). It even works in BIOS before the OS loads. Though, I would recommend checking with your manufacturer to make sure your computer supports USB KBs in BIOS before relying a setup like this. (I might toss a really small wired KB in my bag of tricks just to be sure I have one that I know will work.
(2/9/03) - Update on the Keyboard and Mouse. Somehow, I managed to unsync them. I am having a little trouble finguring out how to get them to sync again, but I have a sneeky suspiscion that I accidentally changed the channel on the KB and Mouse and now the USB base won't talk to them anymore. I'll have to give Tech Support a call and find out how to resync them. (The instructions aren't particularly helpful). But, when it was working, man, it really is a great unit.
(2/19/03) - Turns out the above problem was resolved simply by using the bigger power inverter. While a viable temp fix, its not going to stay that way. I am going to run a smaller 150W inverter under the seat for the computer and USB accessories. The 800W Inverter's fan makes too much noise for my taste.

Screen:
The Xenarc screen is really awesome. 7" touch screen, 640x480 native res with support up to 1024x768 (I guess they are supporting 1280x1024 now too, but mine doesn't do it). The picture is way better than I expected. I do have a few things I do not like about it. First, the cables that plug into the monitor are a really crappy design. I think they were going for a really slim connector and they ended up with a connector that while staying put, if wiggled too much with fuzz out the screen momentarily. The screen didn't come with a 12V DC power cable, but after a trip to Radio Shack, I found a lighter adapter that works great, though the lighter adapter will go away shortly once the power is installed under the seat. The mount that came with it is VERY poorly designed. One side of the hingle doesn't fasten down so that when you go over bumps or try to use the touch screen, the monitor actually moves on the mount even though its securly fastened. I am currently working on a new mount design and I very well might use a Radio Shack speaker wall mount as it is the perfect size and length for where I want to put the monitor, though I think it will place it a bit higher than I really want it. ....more to come
(2/9/03) - I picked up this mount. Hopefully after doing some work to the armrest, this mount will hold the monitor firmly in place. I got distracted and ran out of sunlight to get it installed. More to come..
(2/19/03) - Here are the post install pics of the install. Came out quite nice if I do say so myself. I still need to mount and route that huge cable bundle, but another site has the same monitor and put the cable to a db25. I just might do that to clean up the install a bit. The CarPuter Project. There does seem to be a big problem that I didn't expect. Somehow the screen is screwing up the GPS signal on the MeriGold. Turn the screen on and the signal just about disappers. Turn it off and the signal is back to normal. Have to find a way to isolate the RF coming out of it. Suggestions? Email me!

Power:
UGH. Ok, if you have done much looking around, very few people have a nice solution to the power problem. Either they use the Cubid power supply or they use and invertor to go back to 120V and then plug the PC into that. A few have used the 12VDC power supplies, but they are quite cost prohibitive at this point in the game for me.
(2/9/03) - I installed the 800W Power Inverter and discovered the computer will run on a really small 50W one instead. Now I will have two running instead of one. See install details below.
(2/19/03) - ARGH. Ok, turns out the little power inverter I have has a little trouble providing enough power for the USB port, though the computer runs fine. The wireless USB KB and mouse won't run but are essential to the project so I have to get a 150W Inverter instead for the computer. I need to find something with a big heat sink and no fans so its not noisy.

Seats:
(1/17/2003) - My buddy JR at work removed the passenger seat and ground the mounting rivets off the seat for me. We then replaced them with 1 1/4" long round head bolts, sixteen 1/16" washers and a nut with a nylon insert to keep it from unscrewing itself. This effectively raised the rear of the seat 1" exactly. This gives access under the seat from the rear, to be able to slide the PC under the seat with no problems. It also allows the seat to function normally for the most part. The only disadvantage is that I lost about an 1" of backwards travel in the seat so it no longer goes back as far as the drivers seat. (Which after having several passengers, nobody has noticed). Only thing left to do is paint the washers black so the match the original paint on the mounts.

Audio:
This talks a little about my audio experiences. I am beginning the project with a Clarion RF Modulator so that I do not have to repalce the stock head unit. I currently have the Toyota 3 in 1 Am/FM/CD/Tape deck.
(2/19/03) - RF modulator was put in this past weekend and I've used it a little bit. Only things I have to say is that I need to find another solution. Even with MP3s and WAV files, the sound is not as crisp as it should be. The balance of the line outs and the line from the computer are keeping the sound from working like they are supposed to. After poking around online I found out that my radio has a 12pin connector on it that is usually used for a changer, but I can't find any more info on it. There is a company that makes an aux connector that tricks the head unit into thinking a changer is connected and gives you line in jacks. It would be way better than the RF modulator and would work much more smootly with the setup. Just have to find out if it works with my head unit.

800W Coleman Power Inverter Install:
(2/9/2003) - I installed a 800W Coleman Power Inverter. Cost me about $80.00 at Fry's and another $30 for a Monster Cable Amplifier Install Kit (the 8 Gauge Wire kit, not the 10 Gauge Wire Kit). I decided to mount it behind the drivers side rear fold down seat because of the fact that I could remove the panel from the seat by only taking out two screws. Once the panel was off, I set the Inverter on top of the panel, marked the holes and drilled them out. When I flipped the panel over I noticed that there is a criss-cross grid pattern to help make the panel stronger. I went ahead removed some of the criss cross pattern with my Dremel to allow for the install of the 1 1/2" round fender washers. Fender Washers are big around, and have a very small hole in the center. This gives the bolt considerably more surface area to help hold the unit down.

	This is the front side of the rear seat panel with the holes now drilled out.
	This is the back of the drivers side rear seat panel after the slight "Dremel" mod. Man, I love that thing!
	This is the back of the drivers side rear seat panel after putting on the Inverter. You can see the fender washers
	This is the back of the drivers side rear seat panel showing the length of the screws sticking into the back of the seat. You don't want them to stick out too far so they don't poke the passengers in the back when they sit in the seat.
	A front view of the Inverter mounted in the center at the bottom of the panel to make sure to clear the crossbeam behind the seat.
	A side view of the Inverter mounted at the bottom of the panel to make sure to clear the crossmember behind the seat.
	Here you can see the ground mounted to the post where the seat is mounted to. This should give me a good solid ground wire.
	Another shot of the ground wire attached to the seat mount.
	Here are the cables connected to the Unit.
	Another view of the cables.
	This is the unit all installed and ready to go. You can't tell, but the positive terminal isn't connected yet as I still need to do some wiring.

After getting the Inverter mounted, I went ahead and ran the 8gauge wire under the carpet from the opening where the seat attaches to the base of the truck. From there, it runs to the floor molding on the rear drivers side door. It then runs around the pillar for the seat belt between the pillar and the seat belt mount that is connected to the floor. It then joins a cable bundle and runs along with the cable bundle back to the driver side kick panel under the carpet along the edge where the carpet molding panel is. Once it gets to the drivers side kick panel, it runs behind the 4WD controller and up to the big rubber grommet that is for the hood release and a rather large cable bundle. I poked a hole in the gasket with a flat blade screw driver but couldn't get the cable through. After struggling with it for about 20 minutes, I finally went and got some soluable lube and put a little on the end and the cable slid right through. After getting the cable to the engine compartment, I ran out of sunlight so I bundled up the rest of the cable and left the cable ready for the next install day. It looks like there are several places to connect the cable to on the fuse block that has a large enough gauge wire to power the truck and run the inverter without blowing fuses. One of the really nice things about the Monster Cable Amp Install kit is that it includes a premolded 30AMP inline fuse assembly that runs along with the positive power cable. A really nice way to be able to make sure that in the event the cable shorts out, the fuse will blow and keep from starting a fire or causeing major damage to the truck. Also, the Inverter has four 25AMP fuses internal to the unit. it included spares, but it doesn't look like the would be easy to replace. Hopefully, I never have to.
(2/15/03) Well, I finally hooked up the positive power leads to the Inverter. Man, it works great! I managed to actaully run my 1/3hp power drill on it without the engine running. I still need to do the test that shows how long the unit will run without the battery going dead on me, but that will have to happen when I have a whole day to waste. Seems like it will go for more than a few hours with a small load and have no issues.

2002 Toyota Tacoma Double Cab Dash Disassembly:

These instructions are for use at your own risk. I wrote these instrutions for referance as I was unable to find such instructions and had to do this process blindly. These instructions should work for the regular cab and extended cab 01-03 tacomas as well if the dash looks similar. The only difference is that in the pics that I have here, I have a GPS installed in the hole where everyone else has their passenger airbag disable switch located. I don't know anything about it, but the blank cover snaps out of the hole without any problems. My best guess is that the airbag switch does as well.

PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE, use your common sense and use these instructions at your own risk. I'm not to be held liable if your dumb ass screws something up cause you should have had a professional do it to geting with. The disassembly is very simple, but pay very close attention when shifting out of park when working on the truck! You don't want your precious bumping into something else inadvertantly!

	Here is the tacoma before you tear it all to pieces
	This is the left side of the lower panel. You have to remove this first. See the picture below on how the clips work. You need to get a very small flat bladed screw driver and pry out the center circle on the clip. It will release the clip to be pulled out.
	Here is the clip holding the left and right sides of the lower panel to the truck. See! Now it makes sense.
	Here is the right side after I removed the same little clip from the right side. Just pull gently on the panel and it should pop out of the clip in the center of the picture
	Here is the clip right under the lighter socket. A gentle pull will release this one as well.
	Once you pull the clips off, you'll see both of the 120W lighter adpaters connected on the panel, just tug gently on the connectors and they should slide off with no problem.
	OK, now the tricky part. pry the RIGHT SIDE hole out first. don't pull too hard, take a look at the pics of the clips to take a look at where the clip holding the right side is. Once you pull the right side off, the left side usually snaps right off.
	Here is a pic of the face plate back side, notice the sides the clips are on.
	Here is what it looks like once the HVAC control panel cover is off.
	Right hand side before taking the screw out for the vent and fascade cover.
	Right hand side after taking the screw out for the vent and fascade cover. Notice I only took out the single screw.
	Left hand side before taking the screw out of the vent and fascade cover.
	Left hand side after taking the screw out of the vent and fascade cover.
	Remove the ashtray and below the ash tray behind where the lower panel was, you'll see the last remaining screw holding the vent and fascade cover on. Its the obvious screw in the center of the picture.
	This is a side view of the fascade panel with the vents in it. Best way to remove it, is to pop out the blank cover next to the vents (the airbag switch for the non d-cab owners out there) and pull easily on the panel. You should feel it pop out slightly as the first clip pops out. Run a flat blade screw driver under the middle of the top of the panel, and it should release the other top clip. They are a little tough to pull out at first, don't use too much force, the panel can break! Use some masking tape or something if you are worried about scratching anything. In the picture you can see the side clips, simply pull on the panel with very little force and they should pop out as well. The front panel should now be free. Careful, the lighter is plugged in as is the light for the lighter and the ashtray.
	This is the right hand side of the front panel. Notice the clip on the top. If you have trouble pulling off the panel, that is the clip that is being difficult. (the one above the hold in the far left of the picture).
	Here are those connectors I was warning you about. the lighter one pops off easily, but the lights somehow twist out. I left them connected when I did it as I only had it out for a minute.
	If you want to remove the radio, remove the upper and lower screws from the plates on the right hand side of the radio. The screws are missing in the picture, I didn't get a before and after picture.
	If you want to remove the radio you will also need to remove the left hand side upper and lower screws. The screws are missing in the picture, I didn't get a before and after picture.
	if you look closely in this picture, you can see I have stashed my FM modulator directly under the vent output behind the panel. Its very snug in there and was very secure. Its also very close to all the connectors that it needed to work with. (Antenna, power..etc)

Well, that is all there is to it.. Reassembly is actually in reverse order. I actaully took the pics as I put the panels back together so that I didn't have to fight with both the camera and the front panel. If you have any questions, email me at the link at the top of the page.